I have spent a lot of time in France, and a lot of that time was in the south. My husband and I owned an apartment for many years in the old town of Nice, in a perfectly situated old building near a bakery, small grocery, wine shop, and butcher. When we decided to accept full-time positions for a working sabbatical, it was also a quick walk to work in one direction, and the beach in the other. One day, we decided to have three children and our sweet little place was just too small to fit us all, so we sold it to another adventurous American couple.
Our little apartment in Nice. A salon with a view. Photo courtesy of Nice Pebbles.
While living overseas I realized that there is no place I’d rather be than home, but during these COVID times, I find that I am now missing Nice terribly. When I say Nice, I must explain that it really is a general memory name that I have given to that whole area and my experience bank that is associated with it. It just seems too vague to call it France. The south is so different and so specific. Fair or unfair, “Nice” includes a significant amount of time I have spent wandering around Provence and Italy as well. After all, you can walk to the Italian border along the coast from Nice, if you’re game. It seems there is so much more in common there than with the northern enclaves of Paris, Normandy, and Brittany, though my French friends and Italian friends alike would be horrified to read that I’ve lumped them in the same family.
I thought that while we are all reminiscing about past travels and future adventures, it might be fun to jot down some tips, tricks, and interesting tidbits to share with you in the hope that one day you too will venture past Paris.
1. The pebble beaches of Nice are fake.
Spring at the Baie des Anges, Nice
You know those iconic galets that Nice is known for? They aren’t naturally occurring! I had no idea until I lived there. Evidently this is common knowledge to everyone but me, and possibly you, but the smooth pebbles are brought in by the truckloads. This may sound strange if you’re used to white sandy coastlines, but I actually loved the stones. I still find myself irritated by sand sometimes. I never had to worry about the hassle of tracking sand all over the apartment, plus picnics are infinitely easier. You can also walk to your preferred beach spot more efficiently when you don’t have to trudge through that hot stuff and risk blowing out your flops. The other thing that makes the pebble beaches nice is that they are used constantly throughout the day, even during the workweek. Many people take their lunch breaks down by the sea. I absolutely loved seeing men and women in their suits, heels, shoes, and socks off, enjoying some pissaladière, pan bagnat, or a jambon beurre baguette (usually with a hand-rolled cigarette for dessert) before heading back to the office.
2. The cost of baguettes used to be regulated by the French government.
That’s right! No matter what bakery you visit, it is why une baguette will always cost around, if not exactly, .90 Euros, no matter the neighborhood in which your boulangerie is located. We finally asked why and solved the mystery of this puzzling observation. The baguette is considered an institutional must-have, just like the minimum wage, and quality baguettes must be affordable to everyone in the Republic. Although the government hasn’t officially engaged in baguette price control since the 80s, numerous consumer groups still monitor and maintain consistent pricing throughout the country. I have never, EVER, been able to find baguettes here in the States that compare, regardless of price or claims that they are “just like” or “made in” French style. The smell of baguettes in the bread oven is unbelievable, irresistible, and mouth-watering. Bakers start loading in batches around quitting time so that everyone can pick up a fresh baguette or two on the way home from work. Brian and I would always get two; one to munch while we walked home from work, and one to eat during apéritifs and dinner.
Fresh through the back door. A favorite boulangerie that shared space with a wood-fire pizzeria.
3. Topless bathing is not done by locals.
Don’t get me wrong, there is topless sunbathing on the beaches, whether they are public or private. But as a dear friend and former colleague of mine put it, “It’s only the tourists and local tarts who do it.” (Translation). This makes sense to me. Since everyone who lives in Nice naturally goes to the beach, how awkward if your boss, or worse, your teenage child that happened to be out with his or her friends, ran into you basking topless on a random Saturday afternoon! It’s just not worth the embarrassment.
After primary school, children stop by the beach.
4. Rent a boat for the day.
Villefranche-sur-Mer
It’s easy to do. There are plenty of companies that have small motorized fishing style boats, pontoon-style, or catamarans that you can hire by the hour or by the day. It’s a lot of fun to pack a cooler with food and a bottle or two of rosé and then head out away from the crowds swimming closer to shore. I liken it to heading to the lake here in Tennessee. Just rent one, paddle out, and off you go! You can also drop anchor and swim back into shore, almost using the boat as your own private dock out in the Med. Unlike the Gulf of Mexico, the Caribbean, or even the Atlantic or Pacific, the Mediterranean gets deep very quickly. It’s like a Great Lake in a way, only salty and the most beautiful shade of indigo you’ll ever see. Villefranche is a particularly good spot to drop anchor and swim a while.
5. You can refill your wine bottles.
There are certain wine shops where locals go to refill from the tank. Basically, it’s just a large vat of Côtes du Rhône AOC with a spigot. It’s cheap, flavorful, easy-drinking, AND better than most $30 bottles I would buy in America. I don’t think we ever paid more than 2 Euros and it always tasted fresh and flavorful.
6. Speaking of wine: Yes, it is enjoyed every day and at lunch.
When we moved back home, I didn’t realize how accustomed I had become to wine glasses being part of the table setting at lunch. I can’t recall a single café or restaurant that didn’t have wine glasses placed at the table along with the silverware, water glass, and napkin. If the restaurant was more casual, without place settings, you would be brought your silverware, glass, wine glass, and cut baguette automatically when you sat down. Wine with lunch is an assumption, not an ask.
A day without wine is a day without sunshine!
Provencal Proverb
Casual Provencal lunch setting at Le Petit Prince restaurant.
7. Nice has it’s own AOC.
It’s called Bellet. And it’s actually the smallest appellation in France. There are a couple of chateaux in the hills of Nice that have their own tasting rooms and make for a fun visit. A bottle of Bellet AOC, while not fancy, makes a truly one of a kind souvenir to bring home.
This is a very short list of the things that came to mind initially as I started writing this blog post, but there are so many things that go into creating a sense of place. What are the experiences that have touched you most about a specific place? Was it a sound? A smell? The air? Or just a feeling? I would love for you to share!
